Cutter question

[fixitright]

It has to be a known line or short line for me to use the K-60 so the Dreel is my go to machine.
Over 100' is common here and pulling the 7/8" that far is a pain.

I use the Eel root saws mostly but notice there not really finishing the job well and leaving a lot if I camera
the line. My price point does not let me stay long enough for multiple passes.

Some of the locals are using a double 4" cutter that they squeeze in and it seems to expand and possibly clean more but I wonder if they're going to pound through tough blockages.

I would have to have something made up as Eel doesn't make a double 4".

Do I change?

[Cable or root]

Call aj coleman and see if you can use a general 4uc cutter with an L connector for eel cable. General advertises the 2uc cutter only for 1 1/4 but i wonder if the larger blades work in that same chuck. It would be better if they had an adapter for duracable pear blades. I live by those. If you ever do come to the drum side the crazy blade is the way to go.

Just looked up eel cutters. Do they not make the u4 blades any more?

[Roto-Rooter]

Cable,
I have always used full blades (2) in a cone chuck or a C1 chuck. I have found 2 are less likely to hang up and also usually 1 pass does the job. Many a time using 1 blade (not being able to get by a bad joint or other) has dove into the roots and hung me. I am not a sectional man, never used one and am not running them down. The guys here that have them it seems I can set up my machine have the sewer cleaned and be gone long before they are. After 65 years no need to change.

[Cable or root]

I always try to stick a crazy blade down the line first which does have a double on it just a foot back. The double keeps the single from getting buried. Only time i just run a single is if i know the line is Orangeburg.
I really like my little sled it has proven itself time and time again over the years. However I would like to try 1 1/4" cable on those lines where rhe house sat vacant for 2+ years. I would like to see if the dreel could make those jobs faster. I wish i could rent a model c or a k1500 to check them out on those 110' root infested lines.

[AssTyme]

Yes multiple passes with a sectional suck and the 3" root saw does leave plenty behind in a 4" line when you don't have a full sized cleanout. The thick HD bits have no flex to squish down into a undersized cleanout.

Fortunately my medium duty 300 does most 4" mains and I can get the thinner larger pair shaped bits to squish down and fit through a 3" cleanout opening all while sitting on my bucket.

I think if I were to get an adapter and run the thinner pair shaped bits with my 1.25" Eel cable they wouldn't last very long. They would break or get bent all to hell lol!

[AssTyme]

Cable,
I have always used full blades (2) in a cone chuck or a C1 chuck. I have found 2 are less likely to hang up and also usually 1 pass does the job. Many a time using 1 blade (not being able to get by a bad joint or other) has dove into the roots and hung me. I am not a sectional man, never used one and am not running them down. The guys here that have them it seems I can set up my machine have the sewer cleaned and be gone long before they are. After 65 years no need to change.

With my drum I always first run the line with a single then follow up with a double. I find the single rips through and opens the line much faster and if it does get hung up I can free it up much quicker than if it were a double. Don't like it when the double just sits there and spins on a blockage because it's not aggressive enough to initially rip through the blockage.

Your running a more powerful drum and larger cable so that's probably the difference.

Hey Fixit, I do all this while my ass is planted on a 5gal bucket

[Cable or root]

With my drum I always first run the line with a single then follow up with a double. I find the single rips through and opens the line much faster and if it does get hung up I can free it up much quicker than if it were a double. Don't like it when the double just sits there and spins on a blockage because it's not aggressive enough to initially rip through the blockage.

Your running a more powerful drum and larger cable so that's probably the difference.

Hey Fixit, I do all this while my ass is planted on a 5gal bucket

Cone chuck blades are more aggressive than standard 4" pears and the point of the blade scrapes tighter to the wall than spartan type pears do. The tips are also a sharper point so i see how roto does his thing. I really like cone chucks but the boss doesn't order them so i use what im given.

Hey asstyme you should try a crazy blade with your 300. I used to run one on the 1066 and they both use the same motor I'd be surprised. If it didnt work just as well. 1 pass wonder man.

As far as the dreel goes is an expansion blade feasible to run on the first pass when heavy roots are involved? Anyone ever try those general spiral root saws that use 2 blades?

[fixitright]

Cone chuck blades are more aggressive than standard 4" pears and the point of the blade scrapes tighter to the wall than spartan type pears do. The tips are also a sharper point so i see how roto does his thing. I really like cone chucks but the boss doesn't order them so i use what im given.

Hey asstyme you should try a crazy blade with your 300. I used to run one on the 1066 and they both use the same motor I'd be surprised. If it didnt work just as well. 1 pass wonder man.

As far as the dreel goes is an expansion blade feasible to run on the first pass when heavy roots are involved? Anyone ever try those general spiral root saws that use 2 blades?

I'm leary of putting an expansion blade down a line without cleaning and camering it first. A bad offset may spell disaster.
If I knew the line maybe.

[Roto-Rooter]

It has to be a known line or short line for me to use the K-60 so the Dreel is my go to machine.
Over 100' is common here and pulling the 7/8" that far is a pain.

I use the Eel root saws mostly but notice there not really finishing the job well and leaving a lot if I camera
the line. My price point does not let me stay long enough for multiple passes.

Some of the locals are using a double 4" cutter that they squeeze in and it seems to expand and possibly clean more but I wonder if they're going to pound through tough blockages.

I would have to have something made up as Eel doesn't make a double 4".

Do I change?

We found out years and years ago that saw tooth blades don't CLEAN very good so quit using them. If you like your setup I wouldn't change. I have never used a sectional (not talking them down either, to each his own) and only know the guys here that do we follow them around (maybe they don't try) re-cleaning. I have watched them and do know I can be in and out getting the job done a whole lot faster.

[AssTyme]

Cone chuck blades are more aggressive than standard 4" pears and the point of the blade scrapes tighter to the wall than spartan type pears do. The tips are also a sharper point so i see how roto does his thing. I really like cone chucks but the boss doesn't order them so i use what im given.

Hey asstyme you should try a crazy blade with your 300. I used to run one on the 1066 and they both use the same motor I'd be surprised. If it didnt work just as well. 1 pass wonder man.

As far as the dreel goes is an expansion blade feasible to run on the first pass when heavy roots are involved? Anyone ever try those general spiral root saws that use 2 blades?

I don't think the 300, .55 cable has enough balls for that blade configuration.

No, for the most part the exp blade are a finishing blade but I have used them to open up familiar lines.